Skin Care 101

Skin 101

Skin is a complex, corrugated layering of tissue, cells, glands and other biological components, each vital to the health of the entire organ. It protects us from damage and pathogens both internally and from the outside environment. Skin is a storage center for lipids and water, a semi-impermeable barrier to fluid loss so essential nutrients aren’t washed out of our bodies. Keeping each of the three principal layers (the Epidermis, the Dermis, and the Hypodermis) healthy is key to skin's health.

Epidermis: The stratum corneum is the outermost part of the epidermis we can see. It is our waterproof barrier and is comprised of dead skin cells held together with glue like protein. The epidermis can be brightened through regular exfoliation (not more than once daily) by removing a few layers of those dead skin cells. The best at-home exfoliants are chemical (Lactic Acid) or gentle mechanical powders (Imperial Pearl Powder).

Almost nothing can penetrate the epidermis, with a few exceptions, so most things you apply topically are simply plumping up those dead skin cells so they don't look so dull. Oil combined with small amounts of water are the most effective. Natural compounds such as hyaluronic acid, collagen, and honey are all humectant additive that will temporarily plump the skin.

It's important to correctly exfoliate so that active collagen generating compounds (like Lactic Acid, Vitamin C, and retinoids) can reach the dermis - this is where anti-aging magic happens.

Dermis: The dermis provides structure, support & resilience. It's made up of the structural proteins collagen and elastin, along with blood vessels, lymph vessels, and specialized cells. It is here that new skin cells are born. There are only a handful of healthy organic compounds that can penetrate to the dermis to produce collagen. Among them are: alpha hydroxys (Lactic Acid is the best), Retinoids (if your skin can handle it), Vitamin C, and Essential Oils.

Hypodermis: The hypodermis provides insulation and padding. The general condition of our skin is dependent on the fitness of the hypodermis. Its overall health is in turn dependent on diet, exercise and healthy living. As we age, our hypodermis thins and atrophies, contributing to (along with hyaluronic acid loss) sagging and generalized attenuation. The hypodermis attaches to the dermis with collagen and elastin. Besides the above, the hypodermis needs plenty of oil and water taken internally (60-80oz/day H20 for the average size woman) and omega rich fatty oils (cod liver, olive, avocado etc.).

Basic Skin Routine

A basic skin routine involves cleaning and moisturizing the outer surface of the skin, or epidermis (specifically the paper thin, outermost layer of the already slender epidermis, called the stratum corneum.) While the longer term health of the skin is housed in the dermis, the outermost layer must be hydrated and moisturized very regularly, as it is a layer of dead cells that dulls easily. When skin looks “dewy,” it is a result of the epidermis receiving adequate nutrition. To best achieve this, skin must receive a combination of oil and water.

Every time we wash or apply products, we strip the skin of its natural protective layer to a degree. For most people it is important to clean the skin before bed to remove makeup, impurities, sunscreen, toxins, etc. As we age it is not necessarily vital that we wash again in the morning. You may choose to apply a nourishing mask (eg. honey, avocado, milk, or yogurt) as a substitute for a cleanser to provide additional moisture and hydration to skin.

Remember when taking care of skin that the same delicate tissues exist on the neck, décolletage, and backs of hands.

Winter Skin Regimen

When the temperature drops, the skin becomes more sensitive, and the cold air and biting winds of winter can make it even more fragile. Cold weather can also make your circulation less efficient. As a result, the skin's metabolism can become sluggish, and less oxygen reaches the cells.

This means that in cold, windy, damp weather, your skin tends to become dry, flaky, and chapped, and may feel tight. The dehydration can exacerbate skin conditions such as eczema. And switching between extreme temperatures- going from a warm house to the cold outdoors- can worsen broken veins or rosacea.

Trying to keep warm in winter brings another set of problems. Turning up the central heating, using heavy quilts or electric blankets, and keeping the windows tightly closed, can also dehydrate the skin and make it appear prematurely aged. You may notice fine lines around the eyes, puffiness, and blotchy skin.

Cold - Weather Skin Care

Switch the heating as low as possible. Wear extra clothing if necessary.
Keep the air moist by placing bowls of water near radiators or sources of heat, or buy a humidifier.
Avoid electric blankets and other electric bedwarmers. They can keep your sleeping body temperature at too high a level.
When possible, keep a window open at night to let in fresh air.
Wear layers of loose rather than close-fitting clothing. Tight clothes can inhibit circulation and clinging fabrics can irritate your skin.
Take regular exercise in winter to keep the blood moving around the body.
Drink lots of water to prevent dehydration.
Use a good moisturizer, especially when going outdoors.

ESSENTIAL DAY KIT

Honey Blossom Mask & Wash

Immortal Dew pH Balancing Hydrosol

Blueberry C Serum or Firm Resolve Serum

Whipped Roses Moisture Concentrate

HOW TO USE THE ESSENTIAL DAY KIT

Step 1: Honey Blossom Mask & Wash

Scoop a teaspoon honey and oil mixture and apply in thin film over moist face and neck before getting in shower. Let the honey stay on skin as long as you are in the water and splash with warm water or a clean wash cloth to rinse.

Step 1.5: If using Blemish Barrier, Melasma Care, Scar Therapy, Argan EF Eye Therapy, or Rosacea & Eczema Treatment, now is the time to apply that.

Step 2: Immortal Dew pH Balancing Hydrosol

Blueberry C Serum or Firm Resolve Serum

After washing, spritz face and palms with hydrosol until moistened. Add several drops of serum to palm and rub hands together vigorously to emulsify, pressing into skin. Allow mixture to absorb several minutes before applying Moisture Concentrate.

Step 3: Whipped Roses Moisture Concentrate

After washing face and applying serum, apply a pea-sized amount and add to hydrosol-moistened palm. Rub hands together vigorously to emulsify. Press into face, neck, decolletage and backs of hands.

Step 4: Apply sunscreen!

ESSENTIAL NIGHT KIT

Vetiver Dream Oil Wash

Lactic Acid

Immortal Dew pH Balancing Hydrosol

F.A.C.E. Repair Serum

Balm of Verbenone Moisture Concentrate

HOW TO USE THE ESSENTIAL NIGHT KIT

Step 1: Vetiver Dream Oil Wash

Shake well. Pump small amount into palm and massage in small, light circles on wet face and neck. Gently wipe with warm washcloth.

Step 2: Lactic Acid

Two to five times per week, apply several drops to a cotton pad and wipe onto clean face, neck, décolletage and backs of hands, avoiding eye area. Leave on for 5-15 minutes depending on sensitivity. Rinse with warm water. Dilute with H20 to use as a wash (w/ washcloth), avoiding eye area. WEAR SUNSCREEN AND DO NOT EXPOSE UNPROTECTED SKIN TO SUN FOR 24 HRS FOLLOWING TREATMENT.

Step 2.5: If using Blemish Barrier, Melasma Care, Scar Therapy, Argan EF Eye Therapy, or Rosacea & Eczema Treatment, now is the time to apply that.

Step 3: Immortal Dew pH Balancing Hydrosol

F.A.C.E. Repair Serum

Step 4: Balm of Verbenone Moisture Concentrate

After washing face and applying serum, apply a pea-sized amount and add to hydrosol-moistened palm. Rub hands together vigorously to emulsify. Press into face, neck, decolletage and backs of hands.

PRO DAY KIT

Honey Blossom Mask & Wash

Immortal Dew pH Balancing Hydrosol

Blueberry C Serum or Firm Resolve Serum

Whipped Roses Moisture Concentrate

HOW TO USE THE PRO DAY KIT

Step 1: Honey Blossom Mask & Wash

Step 1.5: If using Blemish Barrier, Melasma Care, Scar Therapy, Argan EF Eye Therapy, or Rosacea & Eczema Treatment, now is the time to apply that.

Step 2: Immortal Dew pH Balancing Hydrosol

Blueberry C Serum or Firm Resolve Serum

Step 3: Whipped Roses Moisture Concentrate

After washing face and applying serum, apply a pea-sized amount and add to hydrosol-moistened palm. Rub hands together vigorously to emulsify. Press into face, neck, decolletage and backs of hands.

Step 4: Apply sunscreen!

PRO NIGHT KIT

Vetiver Dream Oil Wash

Lactic Acid

Hyaluronic C Combo

Argan EF Eye Therapy

Immortal Dew pH Balancing Hydrosol

F.A.C.E. Repair Serum

Balm of Verbenone Moisture Concentrate

HOW TO USE THE PRO NIGHT KIT

Step 1: Vetiver Dream Oil Wash

Shake well. Pump small amount into palm and massage in small, light circles on wet face and neck. Gently wipe with warm washcloth.

Step 2: Lactic Acid – OR - Hyaluronic C Combo Pack

Lactic Acid: Use 2-4 times per week

Two to four times per week, apply several drops to a cotton pad and wipe onto clean face, neck, décolletage and backs of hands, avoiding eye area. Leave on for 5-15 minutes depending on sensitivity. Rinse with warm water. Dilute with H20 to use as a wash (w/ washcloth), avoiding eye area. WEAR SUNSCREEN AND DO NOT EXPOSE UNPROTECTED SKIN TO SUN FOR 24 HRS FOLLOWING TREATMENT.

Hyaluronic C Combo Pack: Use 1 packet per week (2 applications)

How to Use: Empty contents of ONE powder packet into clean, empty jar. Do NOT inhale or get powder near eyes. Add ½ tsp H20, mix and apply to clean face and neck using cosmetic brush. If desired, apply a thin layer of Vitamin E/Ferulic over mask. Remove after 20 minutes (or immediately if irritation occurs). Use daily until single application is finished and discard of solution yellows. Repeat with a new packet weekly. Store unopened packets sealed and dry in jar. WEAR SUNSCREEN AND DO NOT EXPOSE UNPROTECTED SKIN TO SUN FOR 24 HRS FOLLOWING TREATMENT.

Step 2.5: If using Blemish Barrier, Melasma Care, Scar Therapy, or Rosacea & Eczema Treatment, now is the time to apply that.

Step 3: Apply Argan EF Eye Therapy

After cleansing, dot around eye area once or twice daily

Step 4: F.A.C.E. Repair Serum

Step 5: Balm of Verbenone Moisture Concentrate

After washing face and applying serum, apply a pea-sized amount and add to hydrosol-moistened palm. Rub hands together vigorously to emulsify. Press into face, neck, decolletage and backs of hands.

Anti-Aging Regimen

Aging of skin occurs when the matrix of the skin breaks down, a natural process that happens over time and can be exacerbated by sun exposure and toxins, or improved by appropriate nourishment. It is important to realize that most skin care products, though they may be sustaining to the superficial layer of the skin (the epidermis) and giving it a dewy glow, they do not reach the dermis, where collagen and elastin reside. Without penetration enhancing chemicals, only a handful of skin supporting ingredients can reach the dermis to increase cell turnover, repair tissue, and “reverse” aging. If we are to maintain healthy skin throughout a lifetime, all three layers - Epidermis, Dermis, and Hypodermis – must be nourished.

The Protocol, Step by Step

This anti-aging protocol works primarily at the dermal level to increase cell turnover and regeneration, provide anti-oxidant activity and deep hydration, and to synthesize collagen and elastin. Remember to treat all delicate tissue, including face, neck, décolleté (neck to breasts), and backs of hands.

Wash, Tone, and Hydrate once (night) or twice (morning and night) daily. Have a good basic skin care regimen in place. See Basic Skin Care Regimen page for more info.
Exfoliate 2-3x per week.* The best anti-aging exfoliants will serve both to 1) Remove dead skin and encourage growth of young, fresh skin, and 2) Reach the dermis for collagen and elastin synthesis. These are: Alpha Hydroxys, Fruit Enzymes, and Retinoids. Twice a week at bedtime (or as directed), apply an exfoliant (I use 1 10% lactic acid solution) on face, neck, décolleté, and backs of hands (Note: If you use retinoids do not combine them with alpha hydroxys).
Apply an Antioxidant Treatment (Vitamin C) 2x per week.* Vitamin C is the free radical eradicator par excellence for skin. It also is a powerful exfoliant and assists in cell turnover and collagen synthesis. Twice a week at night, apply a freshly made Vitamin C treatment (unless you are using a very specific oil soluble Vitamin C derivative, any pre-made Vitamin C serum will not be effective within several days of being exposed to air).
Nourish Yourself Nightly. After washing and while skin is most open and receptive (just after washing and exfoliating) spritz pH balanced hydrosol (or filtered H20) and immediately follow with a serum to seal hydration (see basic skin care regimen for application techniques). Apply any other treatments for special conditions (such as hyperpigmentation or wrinkles) at this time as well.
Make Self-Care a Priority. Take an Epsom salt bath and apply a hydrating, restorative mask at least once a week. This is not a treat or a luxury (though it feels great!); it is necessary to overall skin health as it removes toxins, adds moisture and invigorates the entire organ of the skin (remember to apply an oil-based cream or straight fatty oil to skin while it is still wet).

*While each has unique benefits, both Vitamin C and Hydroxys are exfoliants. Especially with inflamed or sensitive skin, it is important to not over-exfoliate. A rule of thumb is every 48 hours, working up to one exfoliation treatment per 24 hours (only if skin needs and tolerates it).

Sacred Energy Chakra Oils

The Chakras are a complex of energies coalesced into 7 centers along the spine. They are gateways for the flow of energy and life into our physical bodies. Each chakra corresponds to the refinement of energy representing integration on all levels. In balance, the chakras unite radiantly into full self-awareness. The degree of openess and flow through our chakras determines our state of health and balance. Meditation and yoga seeks to purify, balance, and harmonize the chakra fields. Each center is integral to our energetic balance.

Root/Muladhara

security, survival, self-esteem

chakra location: base of spine

element: earth sense: smell emotion: fear

organs, glands, systems: adrenals, kidneys, colon, legs, bones, immune system

physical challenges: lower back pain, sciatica, varicose veins, immune system dysfunction, depression, restlessness, emotional volatility, selfishness, lack of energy

in balance: grounded, centered, vital, manifesting potential & abundance

plant medicine:

vetiver: psychologically grounding; calming and stabilizing. stress & emotional trauma relief
cedarwood: antibacterial, lymphatic stimulant, stimulates limbic system and pineal gland; used for ad/hd, arteriosclerosis; calming, purifying
patchouli: relaxant, thought clarifying, allows release of obsessions and insecurity

contains: organic cold pressed olive oil, vitamin e, medical grade essential oils of: vetiver, patchouli, cinnamon bark, ginger, cedarwood .5 oz

Sacrum/Svadhisthana

relationships, creativity, sexuality

chakra location: lower belly, below navel

element: water sense: taste emotion: passion

organs, glands, systems: spleen, reproductive organs, circulation, kidneys

challenges: lack of energy, allergies, repression, overindulgence, sexual addiction, anger, poor boundaries, overly emotional, resistence to change

in balance: sensual, creative, sense of belonging, sense of humor, radiating compassion, warmth, & concern for others

plant medicine:

bergamot: hormone support, antibacterial, combats insomnia and viral infections, relieves anxiety and tension, mood lifting
clary sage: nerve tonic, enhances dreams, builds confidence, balances hormones, circulation, cholesterol
patchouli: relaxant, thought clarifying, allows release of obsessions and insecurity

contains: organic cold pressed olive oil, vitamin e, medical grade essential oils of: bergamot, clary sage, elemi, patchouli, jasmine, cardamom .5 oz

Solar Plexis/Manipura

self-esteem, intellect, vitality

chakra location: solar plexus

element: fire sense: sight emotion: anger

organs, glands, systems: pancreas, small intestine, stomach, gall bladder, liver

challenges: poor digestion, diabetes, gall stones, food allergies, anxiety, judgemental, overly intellectual, feelings of superiority or powerlessness

in balance: strong sense of personal power, outgoing, cheerful, respectful, intelligent, spontaneous, expressive

plant medicine:

juniper: detoxifying, nerve regenerating, evokes feelings of health, love, and peace
roman chamomile: minimizes anxiety, irritibility, combats insomnia, depression, stress, encourages release of emotions and toxins
cardamom: opens lungs/sinuses, relieves indigestion, headaches, senility; uplifting, clarifying, invigorating, calming

contains: organic cold pressed olive oil, vitamin e, medical grade essential oils of: rosemary, roman chamomile, juniper, lavender, cardamom, peppermint .5 oz

Heart/Anahata

unconditional love, compassion, devotion

chakra location: heart

element: air sense: touch emotion: compassion, joy

organs, glands, systems: thymus, heart, lungs, chest, arms, breasts

challenges: asthma & lung conditions, high blood pressure and heart conditions, difficulty in relationship, lonlieness, inability to forgive, possessiveness, demanding, lack of self-discipline, self-pitying

in balance: ability to express and receive joyful and abundant love. compassionate and empathetic, courageous; clarity of life’s purpose

plant medicine:

roman chamomile: minimizes anxiety, irritibility, combats insomnia, depression, stress, encourages release of emotions and toxins
rose: hormone support, heart opening, promotes loving kidnness, unconditional love, relieves anxiety and tension, mood lifting and grief soothing
clary sage: nerve tonic, enhances dreams, builds confidence, balances hormones, circulation, cholesterol
eucalyptus globulus: promotes health and well-being, respiratory and joint support, anti-bacterial and immune system stimulating

contains: organic cold pressed olive oil, vitamin e, medical grade essential oils of: roman chamomile, bergamot, clary sage, eucalyptus globulus, rose, lavender

Throat/Vishuddha

self-expression, understanding, faith

chakra location: throat

element: ether sense: hearing emotion: faith and understanding

organs, glands, systems: thyroid, parathyroid, mouth, haw, neck, throat, teeth

challenges: thyroid imbalance, neck and shoulder problems, jaw and throat disorders, hearing disorders, poor communication, ignorance, doubt and uncertainty

in balance: contented, centered, good speaking, hearing and listening abilities, balanced sexual energy

plant medicine:

frankincense: increases spiritual awareness, uplifts spirits, stimulates limbic, system, hypothalamus, pineal and pituitary glands, immune stimulating, antitumoral
cedarwood: lymphatic stimulant, stimulates limbic system and pineal gland, calming, purifying
sage: hormone regulating, mentally stimulating, energy balancing, regulates circulation and metabolism

contains:: organic cold pressed olive oil, vitamin e, medical grade essential oils of: frankincense, lavender, cedarwood, sage, lemongrass .5 oz

Third Eye/Ajna

visualization, intuition, imagination

chakra location: between eyebrows

element: light sense: thought emotion: higher intuition

organs, glands, systems: pituitary and pineal glands, head, lower brain, eyes, ears, nose

challenges: eye problems/poor eyesight, headaches, confusion, difficulty concentrating, afraid of success, inability to see big picture

in balance: charismatic, ability to channel/receive higher guidance, not attached to material things, no fear of death

plant medicine:

frankincense: increases spiritual awareness, uplifts spirits, stimulates limbic, system, hypothalamus, pineal and pituitary glands, immune stimulating, antitumoral
cedarwood: antibacterial, lymphatic stimulant, stimulates limbic system and pineal gland; used for ad/hd, arteriosclerosis; calming, purifying
peppermint: respiratory relief, liver support, aids digestion and nausea, treats headaches, skin irritations (itching, eczema, psoriasis), arthritis, varicose veins; improves sensory receptivity, purifying and stimulating to conscious mind, improves concentration and mental alertness

contains:: organic cold pressed olive oil, vitamin e, medical grade essential oils of: blue tansy, frankincense, cedarwood, peppermint, bitter orange

Crown/Sahasrara

consciousness, unity, divine connection

chakra location: crown of head

element: consciousness sense: seventh sense emotion: realisation

organs, glands, systems: pineal and pituitary glands, nervous system, cerebral cortex

challenges: poor balance and coordination, migraines, manic depression, apathy, difficulties with decision making, stress and frustration, worry, materialism

in balance: miracle worker, can transcend the laws of nature, total access to the unconscious and the subconscious

plant medicine:

jasmine absolute: uplifting, stimulating, enhances mental acuity, counteracts hopelessness, nervous exhaustion, anxiety, and listlessness
frankincense: increases spiritual awareness, uplifts spirits, stimulates limbic, system, hypothalamus, pineal and pituitary glands, immune stimulating, antitumoral
lemongrass: antifungal, antimicrobial, regenerates connective tissue and ligaments, circulatory/lymph support, promotes psychic awareness and purification

contains: organic cold pressed olive oil, vitamin e, medical grade essential oils of: frankincense, jasmine absolute, petitgrain bigarade, bitter orange, german chamomile, neroli, lavender, lemongrass .5 oz

Skin Care 101

The Protocol, Step by Step

Wash, Tone, and Hydrate once (night) or twice (morning and night) daily. Have a good basic skin care regimen in place. See Basic Skin Care Regimen page for more info.

lemongrass: antifungal, antimicrobial, regenerates connective tissue and ligaments, circulatory/lymph support, promotes psychic awareness and purification